Eating burgers is no longer primarily the domain of the casual scoffer. The past couple of years has seen this particular gluttonous hobby grow ever serious with divisive camps of Five Guys fanatics arguing the merits of brioche buns excitedly whilst getting the phantom meat sweats just thinking about Meat Liquor. For me, the sign of a superior burger factors in the enjoyability factor – do I feel like I need a shower after? Am I sweating profusely? I can’t say I’ve tried them all yet, I still need to go to Honest Burger and try Bleecker St. Burger and Lucky Chip, but I can safely say that Patty & Bun is a top 3 choice. Every time I go I’m impressed. My failsafe choice is the Ari Gold cheeseburger – a simple beef patty with cheese, lettuce, tomato, pickled onions, ketchup and Smokey P&B mayo on a brioche bun. Heaven. Sure, it’s a bit messy as all great burgers are, but it’s easy enough to fit in your mouth. I don’t see the appeal of everything sliding out into a giant pool while you’re left slobbering into a wad of napkins under a flickering red light bulb. The Ari Gold is the cheeseburger as it’s meant to be. Bacon optional. I’ve also heard great things about the Smokey Robinson burger – a beef patty with cheese, tomato, lettuce, mounds of caramelised onions and bacon. For veggies, there is a perfectly legit Portobello ‘Dig It’ Mushroom burger – with garlic parsley butter and cheese sauce. Mmmm.
Their chips with rosemary salt are the perfect accompaniment. At Five Guys, if you forget to order the Cajun fries, you’re left with a bland pile of chips – and I hate unsalted chips. Not so at Patty & Bun. All of the chips have the same rosemary salt seasoning and are perfectly hot and crispy enough to complement your burger. My mouth is watering just thinking about it. The James Street location is perfect if you find yourself walking around the rolling hellscape of Oxford Circus/Bond Street where there is a real dearth of non-chain eating establishments. There is usually a panting queue of people outside but it tends to move quickly – it’s not really a place you want to linger unless you like getting death stares from hungry punters.
Patty & Bun
54 James Street
London W1U 1HE